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Friday 6 January 2017

Alpine Climbing Conditions on Cairngorm 5th January 2017




A bit of a hike but well worth it for a fun winter mountaineering and winter ice climbing adventure on Cairngorm' east facing 'Alpine Face' on Cnap Coire na Spreidhe. This secluded area is right in the heart of the Cairngorms but does require a long approach over Cairngorm's shoulder into the Strathnethy.

We had near perfect weather, ice and snow as we climbed yet another new unrecorded ice route which we called 'Mhearad's Fall'!

The the main frozen waterfall route is a good early or poor season choice when there's lots of escape-able Grade 2 or even Grade 3 variation before it banks out.

If you don't mind the long approach there are several other short ice climbs to the right and even some longer 300-400 metre mountaineering routes on Spreidhe's east facing 'Alpine Face'.

'Mhearad's Fall' - a new Grade 1/2 winter route up the Ciste Mhearad waterfall from the Strath Nethy. The route normally banks out to a Grade 1 snow gully but in cold lean early season, it reliably forms a number of ice steps at around Grade 2/3, if taken direct.

Later in the season when banked out provides a challenging off piste descent which for the less bold can be abseiled!




More photos can be found on our Facebook album here.

Two places still left on this weekends Winter Skills course running on the 7-8 January 2017 so what are you waiting for, book now!

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